Since I posted this, I switched to Airalo, and never needed Google Fi afterwards. It’s been more than a year.
Despite being more expensive than other eSIM providers (see esimdb.com and esims.io for comparisons), at ~$80/year for global coverage including a real Austrian phone number, Airalo turned out to be far cheaper than Google Fi, because I was on WiFi most of the time.
And no BS about cutting off your data if you spend too much time in or outside a particular location. They did cut off Honduras completely one day in March 2024 without warning - no provider is perfect.